guess who's back, back again

I'm in America.
Where I don't have to ask for "still," "neperliva," or "no gas" water.
Where public bathrooms are definitely free.
Where tap water is free.
Where bread is free in restaurants.
Where you tip more than 10%.
Where you can talk on the metro. Loudly, even.
Where coffee comes big and black.
Where the sun doesn't set at 4 pm.
Where cooking directions come in English.
Where Web sites default to English.
Hell, where everything is in English.

The time between coming back from Vietnam and flying to the Czech Republic was so short that I honestly feel like I haven't properly been in the States since May, and now I have about a week and a half at home before I drive down to campus Jan. 3. I feel like I've seen and experienced more in this year than I have the entire rest of my lifetime and part of me is ready to just collapse in one giant wheeeeew! while the other part of me is still itching to plan that next trip, that next weekend away. Now that I've spent a semester in Europe, I have an entirely new list of places that I want to see (Amsterdam, Berlin, Munich for Oktoberfest, Madrid, Barcelona, Croatia, Serbia, Greece, Istanbul, etc.), and it scares me to know that I don't have any big trips planned in the near future (...so far). It scares me even more to not know when I'll be in Prague again.

I honestly don't know if study abroad cured my wanderlust or made it worse. I am tired and I know that no matter how far I go some things I will never be able to escape from, but there is something freeing in the backpacking, hostel-hopping lifestyle--even if it means slumming it--and in knowing that you can just up and go any minute.

THE FINAL LIST OF WHERE I WENT:
12.09 - 13.09: Northern Bohemia, Czech Republic
18.09 - 21.09: Vienna, Austria
26.09 - 27.09: Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic
02.10 - 05.10: London, England
09.10 - 12.10: Krakow, Poland and Auschwitz
23.10 - 24.10: Bari, Italy
24.10 - 27.10: Rome, Italy and the Vatican
27.10 - 31.10: Florence, Italy and Pisa
31.10 - 03.11: Venice, Italy
07.11: Terezin, Czech Republic
13.11 - 17.11: Paris, France
23.11: Kutna Hora, Czech Republic
04.12 - 06.12: Budapest, Hungary

bright copper kettles and warm woolen mittens

There is actually so much to say about my last weekend in Vienna that I have absolutely no idea where to start and can therefore only say this:

The entire three days and three nights of feeling too much at home at Inga's little restaurant, wandering around in the freezing wind and drizzling rain, being in total awe of the Hapsburg's, getting creeped out by seeing real skeletons for the first time in the cathedral's catacombs, dancing to American music, meeting Austrian people (who seemed much friendlier and goofier than Czech people), having endless amounts of pastries, ice cream, falafel, hummus, strum, coffee, strudel, chocolate, wine, and schnitzel, and getting driven around by our new Austrian friend Philipp on our last night made all four of us girls really realize how much we were missing in Prague. The bus ride back was pretty much exclusively NYU kids trying to make it back before class Monday, and the four of us just couldn't understand how they were all ready to go back to Prague and we still weren't. Why didn't we make as many Czech friends as we did Austrian friends from Vienna in those three days? How did we find such charming little places and not have "our place" in Prague yet? Why have we eaten so much good food in Vienna, but haven't treated ourselves in Prague? Walking back from the metro stop, we realized that our dorm was definitely "familiar," but it wasn't "home" yet.

I've made a resolution to really discover and fall in love with Prague and so far am proud to say that I've been sticking to that goal pretty well. My internship's office is in Lucerna, arguably the oldest working movie theater in Europe, and it's located in this great (though touristy) area with tons of shops and cafes. Granted, the down side of working in such an old, historical building is that on my very first day I got stuck in the elevator because the elevator is wooden and nonstop. Little rectangular boxes come down that you basically jump into and then jump out of, but I was texting on my way down and didn't realize that I had forgotten to jump off at the bottom floor until I heard a shout and saw some guys peering down as I disappeared deeper, deeper, deeper into the darkness... only to see giant wooden knobs turn my little elevator box around and swing me back up about five minutes later. I was seriously getting worried though.

Besides Stupid American moments like that (others include finding out the laundry detergent we had bought was actually fabric softener and not detergent and telling my professor in Czech class "Thank you, urine"), my newest hobby/obsession is walking around until I find a random cafe that I like and sitting down to a cup of tea or coffee to journal or read for hours and hours (...by which I mean at max probably two and a half hours because I feel like I rarely have a block of free time longer than that during which I don't have to meet up with someone or go run errands somewhere...). It's helping me feel more settled in a city that I've always liked but haven't fallen totally in love with yet or really felt completely a part of. Maybe it's because everyone talks about how the Czechs don't smile at strangers that much, or maybe it's the totally unrecognizable language, but I think a lot of it might just be in my head.

And that I can fix.

i almost got ran over by a tram this morning

I have no luck with castles.

On our trip to Northern Bohemia this last weekend, after winning a bottle of tequila at a club the night before for a dance contest that a few of us (including me) didn't even know we were in, we spent the second day attempting to tour the castle there. Problem was that the tour was entirely in Czech and my attention span has only gone downhill since summer started, so me, Amanda, Lily, Hannah, Casey, and Becca found ourselves drifting away from the tour. We stumbled upon an unlocked door that led into what looked like a dungeon, with a tunnel leading down, down, down into cells filled with torture devices.

Dark, creepy dungeon versus tour entirely in Czech?
Like you even needed to ask.

It was seriously cool, but when we finally got out we realized that the place was totally empty.

Doors?
All locked, including the front door we came in through.
Cell phones?
No service, no minutes.
Tour group?
Nowhere to be found.

We were actually locked inside a castle.

Somehow it feels wrong even just typing that last sentence. I mean, yeah, worse things have happened, and it actually made me feel like I was more in a castle and less in a museum by being away from a large tour group, but still! How does that even happen?

Fast forward to today and, after a frantic morning of booking bus tickets and hostels to Vienna completely last minute (we're now leaving at 5 pm TOMORROW right after class, meaning we're staying an extra night than we planned -- thank god for cell phones, Internet, and Skype), I hiked uphill to meet my Czech Architecture class on our first excursion to Prague Castle. We were supposed to meet at the obelisk next to the cathedral at 1:30. I met up with 2 girls from the class, and we waited.

And waited.

And waited.

At 2, we looped the cathedral. Nobody from our class was in sight.

At 2:15, one of the girls went to the gardens to see if maybe there was a misunderstanding with the obelisk we were supposed to be at. Nobody. She went to the basilica, one of the sites listed on our syllabus. Nobody.

We called the NYU Center and the number listed on the syllabus. The class was definitely not cancelled and we got a voicemail.

Starbucks Guy texted and then called me about going out tonight somewhere in the mist of all that. I was too frazzled and FUCKING FREEZING to even contemplate this evening, so I told him we'd have to pack tonight since we're leaving for the weekend and that we'd meet up next week sometime.

In all, we waited from 1:30 until 3 pm in the cold in front of the cathedral (with the logic that, it's a fucking castle -- there is one door in and one door out -- so if our class was even inside the cathedral, which we assumed they would be going into since the professor had said something about buying tickets, we should logically we able to see them when they exited, right? Apparently not). Nobody from our class was there. I have no idea what happened. But I do know that this is the second time I've spent a ridiculous amount of time and effort trying to see Prague Castle with the end result being absolutely nothing.

I wrote probably the most pissy email I've ever sent to a professor when I got back to my room -- complete with an attached photo of me and Jin pouting at the camera in front of the obelisk for proof of our freezing state.

To top it all off, on the way back to my dorm, the store that I wanted to buy a tote bag in was completely sold out of the style I wanted (I think Amanda and Lily got the last ones), I couldn't find anything travel-sized at DM (it's like the Czech Walgreens), and the water I got at the store tastes funny even though it's supposed to be still.

I think this is a sign that I should switch to the other section.
...Plus, that would give me no classes on Wednesday!